Day 90

January 1, 2022:

  • Departed Sligo. Slight detour toward Rosses Point

  • Decided not to look at the beach at Grange

  • I waited under a gas station plaza roof while a rain storm passed by. Went inside and bought sour candy to chew on. Looked at the classic atlantico.ie Wild Atlantic Way map. Such a great map.

  • Got a flat tire on the way to Mullaghmore. Patched tire. Checked for protrusions. Found and removed one. Old farmer asked if I was alright; I was. Just took me a minute to fix it up.

  • Cycled to Mullaghmore. Point sticks out into the Atlantic. Has a beautiful beach that reminded family of the Hamptons - though I’ve never been there, so I wouldn’t know. The point had huge Atlantic waves smashing against the rocks. I parked my bike and went down onto the rocks to take a look. Didn’t get too close. Didn’t want to get wet. Certainly didn’t want to fall in. Those waves, against those rocks - fatal. I’m good swimmer, but I wouldn’t stand a chance. The power of the sea is immense, and it deserves respect. I remembered the statistic that half of all drowning victims don’t expect to end up in the water.

  • Passed Castle Classiebawn. Some old lord made it his summer home. My gosh.

  • Cycled straight back past N15 towards the Gleniff Horseshoe, as had been recommended some days ago by Kuba and Olga at Downpatrick Head. I wouldn’t have gone here if it weren’t for them. It would be evening soon, so I looked for a campsite on the way. That was just as well, because it started raining quite heavily. I found a patch of woods to the side of the road, and negotiated my bike around the yellow and black gate. I set the bike down and dove into the woods, investigating for a spot. Ideally, it’d be flat, dry, sheltered from the storm, hidden from view, and easy to get to. I couldn’t find any place that matched anything close to that characteristic. So I had to keep going.

  • Stopped at Gleniff Coffee Kart. Young lady there served me hot chocolate, cookies, and an oat bar (called a Flapjack? or something). She told me that the caves up the Gleniff Horseshoe were the most active spot for Mountain Rescue in the county - and possibly all of Ireland. She said people would climb those mountains like they were just any random hill, going unprepared into hostile weather like snow. I told her I’d be careful, and that I certainly wouldn’t be setting off just before dark.

  • I burned the ever living shit out of my tongue with the hot chocolate. Ugh. Anyway, at least I drank it quickly. I was able to get a good start up the hill as darkness slowly set in. I made it to Ballintrillick Forest, which I had very deliberately been heading for. It has a hiking trail that goes up into it, and it’s Coillte forest land, so almost public. Ish. Simply put, it wouldn’t be the neighbors that would mind. I wandered around in the forest for a bit on each side of the path. I found a few places that looked flat and sheltered, but were soaked. In fact, the only place that wasn’t soaked was on the trail itself. I found a pull-off area where trucks might pass each other on the one-lane dirt road. There, I set up camp. It wouldn’t be in view unless someone directly passed me. Unfortunately, while dry, it wasn’t protected against the wind. That was a bit of an issue given my already weakened tent poles from Inch Beach back on the Dingle peninsula.

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Day 89