Day 14

October 17, 2021:

Today was a slow day. I woke up a bit late, feeling warm and snuggly in my sleeping bag, feeling like my body needed a bit more rest. I was happy to oblige, and curled up inside. I brought my phone under the covers and caught up with friends, then checked the map, considering how far I wanted to go. I saw Cowan’s Gap State Park had camp sites down the road, and figured that was worth checking out. I got up to boil water for hot chocolate and used a little extra water to fill a Rice-a-roni cup. The hot chocolate was delicious, and kept me warm while I sat in the otherwise cold air. It was about 40 degrees F, and I was thankful to have brought my bigger sleeping bag, since I hadn’t even noticed overnight. The rice-a-roni bowl was okay, but had too much flavoring in it for my taste. I’d have preferred more plain rice. I returned to the tent, got back into the sleeping bag, and got my computer out to write my blog. Best to stay up-to-date on that.

As the morning wore on, the sun warmed the side of the tent. I knew it was still cold outside though, and would stay that way all day. I also still had to change the front tire of my bike, which had once again gone flat. I wrote in my journal for a bit, played some Root on my phone, and listened to a bit of an audio book – one of the Sanderson Cosmere books. By the time I finally motivated myself to go, it was well past noon, maybe 1:30 pm. I packed my bags, and it felt good to be moving around. I extricated myself from my spot, bringing the bike up next to the street on some lawn between a flower shop and a bank.

I took the tools I needed to replace the tire out, removed all the bags, unhooked the front brakes, flipped the bike over, and removed the front tire. I used the tire levers to pry the tire rubber over the rim and pull the inner tube out. I used my handpump to inflate the flat inner tube, looking for the leak. It held pressure, and I couldn’t find a hole. There wasn’t any hissing noise, the usual sign. I would have held it under water like Mama told me Opa used to do, but I didn’t have a basin or creek to work with to test it that way. Intrigued, I fully deflated the inner tube and packed it away. I would have it inspected later at a repair shop. I then inspected the interior of the tire rubber itself, looking for anything sharp or any protrusions that might have caused the tire to go flat. Something like a thorn. I felt around the entire inside, and found a small piece of wire embedded in the tire. It broke off in my hand as I ran my fingers over it. I got my pliers out, and dug the rest of the wire out of the wheel as best I could. I checked the rest of the tire, satisfied that I had found and resolved the issue, then installed my last brand-new inner tube. I pumped it up, then repacked my bags, and set off.

As I left Hustontown behind me, I soon came across an old country store and gas station. I needed to refill my bottles, so I stopped inside for a gallon of water, a cup for a makeshift funnel, and also purchased two sandwiches and a cherry soda. The sandwiches looked pretty good, surprisingly. The store doubled as an actual deli, so aside from your typical terrible bread selection, the meat and cheese were good, the lettuce, onion, and tomato fresh. The cashier guy also gave me mustard and mayo packets to go with them. After refilling my bottles and eating lunch, it was about 3 pm.

I did want to put a little distance between me and my former campsite, and wanted to go at least 15 miles to Cowan’s Gap. There were a lot of small hills. I’m carrying so much equipment with me that the parasitic drag of wind against me means that even while I do accelerate down hills, I never make it up the next one on that energy alone. Not even close. I’m lucky if I get even a little bit of a boost up the next hill. As I went, a few farmers waved to me, and I waved back.

The landscape changed, from one of lush green fields to dense evergreen forest. The smell of pine surrounded me, and some of the more brown needles did fall to the street in especially strong gusts. I climbed through Cowan’s Gap, reaching it at around 5 pm. There’s a beautiful lake there filled with ice cold water. It was smooth, and the nearby hills were reflected almost perfectly on its surface. On the far side of the lake, a row of multicolored kayaks lined the shore. I cycled to the park office and found that after-hours check in was possible, and that campsites were available. But for $35/night, I decided I’d go elsewhere and find someplace else to camp. They also had log cabins, but those were all taken. The bathrooms there were also locked, so I’m not sure what I would have done.

I kept going, over the crest, and down the other side. The road led to the spine of the valley below. I was cognizant of the sun already getting low in the sky. I reached Fort Loudon and went to the Milky Way restaurant. It’s a country diner that was absolutely hopping with activity. Probably every car in Fort Loudon was parked out front. I leaned my bicycle against the brick underneath an open table with a window. Inside, I placed my jacket on that table to stake a claim, but as I did so, some twenty plus people came in and joined the line. I went to the bathroom, hoping the line would be reduced by the time I came back out. It wasn’t. If anything, more people were now in line than before. I joined it, and waited, watching the clock. Time was running out fast. It was now sundown, and I hadn’t even ordered. A couple behind me noticed my worried look and asked me where I was going. I explained, and they mentioned a banger pizza place they knew, just down the street. The guy introduced himself as Josh and gave directions. I thanked them, and headed for it.

The sun was right on the horizon when I got to the pizza joint. I walked in. There were a few people waiting on food to go, and a few people already eating pizza at another table, but there wasn’t anyone in line to order. I quickly selected a combo pizza to go, then sat down, watching the sky slowly darken. The pizza came surprisingly quickly (served in a box), but I was hungry and I ate as fast as I could while I was still seated. Too fast. I burned my tongue and the roof of my mouth. I should have just taken it out as I had originally planned. Someone had ordered a Philly cheesesteak, but never came to pick it up. The waitress offered it to me for free, and I obliged. I ate about half the pizza, left a good tip, then walked outside to my bike. It was now dusk, and I probably had just minutes to find a good spot and start setting up. I CAN find a place in the dark, but it’s rarely as hidden as one I find before sunset, and it’s always an unpleasant process.

To my horror, my front bike tire was completely flat. It had been solid maybe twenty minutes prior, when I cycled down the street from Milky Way. It was as if someone had slashed the tire with a knife, but there was no evidence of exterior damage like that. I put the cheesesteak in one of my panniers, beside the second uneaten deli sandwich. I carried the pizza in one hand, and gripped the right handlebar with the other. I cycled with the flat tire down a hill, over a creek, and immediately came across a field with a small shelter. I cycled across the field, and leaned my bike against the shelter posts. It didn’t seem like anyone owned the field. It was just a piece of unused land with a lot of gravel next to the road. I took out a flashlight and found what could be a useable spot hidden besides the adjacent creek. I came back up to the bike, turning the flashlight off, and looked around. There was a guy on the other side of the road mowing his lawn, and two distinct people-like shapes watching me from the other side of the field. They disappeared after a minute, probably inside their house. I approached, rang the doorbell, and waited for someone to answer. I apologized for disturbing them so late, explained who I was and what I was doing, and asked who owned the land. I had assumed it might be them, and figured I would ask permission to use it for the night. “Um… I think it’s American Legion. It’s not for us to decide, but we don’t mind, and I know the neighbors wouldn’t either.” I thanked them for their time, returning to my bike. It was well and truly dark now. With a flat tire and no new spares, I wouldn’t make it far. This was the best option I had, so I took it. I pushed the bike down the hill towards the creek, parking it next to a thick tree. I got out the tent and set up in the spot I had identified.

I couldn’t find my pen, so didn’t put down my journal entry right then. I might have to buy another one somewhere. I ate the rest of the pizza, but ignored the cheesesteak and sandwich. I dozed off to the sound of the creek gurgling nearby.

…and was awoken maybe two hours later, by the sound of a motorcycle. It was close, maybe under the shelter just through the woods uphill from me. Maybe 25 feet away. I lay still, quiet, like a stowaway trying to remain concealed. The engine shut off, but I didn’t hear footsteps. After about ten minutes, it started up again, and drove away. I don’t think I was seen. I think the guy probably just stopped for a smoke.

The rest of the night passed uneventfully.